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FROM MASTUJ TO ABBOTTABAD VIA SHANDOOR

By : Sher Wali Khan Aseer

It was the last week of November when I travelled from Chitral to Abbottabad via Shandur Pass, Ghizer and Glgit, following comparatively long and tedious route because of blockage of the Mastuj-Chitral Road. It was not my first trip on this road. I had been to Gilgit twice in nineties when the road was just a jeep-able track with sharp ascents and descents. Only very expert driver could drive a 4x4 jeep with utmost caution and the distance covered in more than 18 hours. Now a day the road is quite wide and blacktopped from Gilgit to Phandar-Bridge. I was a bit enthusiastic to undertake this journey by a coach of Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) plying for public transport between Mastuj-Chitral and Gilgit. I had hard much about NATCO bus service to be more regular, comfortable and passenger friendly. Perhaps it was also a reason of my journey on this route. 

Before that I narrate the story of my journey, I would like to mention here that NATCO has done a big job for the people of Northern areas and Chitral by providing bus service between Mastuj and Gilgit. This service has solved one of the biggest problems of these back ward areas, especially of Laspur and Ghizer valleys. It has not only enabled the people easy social and cultural interaction but also reduced traveling expenses of the close relatives living in both sides of the Shandur plateau. People of Chitral and Gilgit (particularly of Ghizer District) enjoy common culture and close family relations. Ghizer valley down to punial, Yasen and Ishkamon were integral part of Chitral State up until 1914. In 1914, the British government of the Indian sub-continent drew bifurcation line between the eastern and western parts of the erstwhile Chitral State and gave it under the administrative control of the Maharaja of Kashmir. It was a big conspiracy against the people of Chitral and Ghizer, which divided them. However, the division could not stop their interaction and family bindings despite communication hurdles. They would traverse the 12500 ft Shandur pass even in the months of January and February wedging through 4-5 feet snow. Hundreds of travelers perished in the stormy weather of freezing winters. After the construction of jeep-able road across Shandur pass, they were relieved of on foot journey at the cost of heavy freight charges. They would pay seven to eight thousand rupees for booking a full taxi on important occasions to pay visit to their relatives. Now NATCO bus service has lessened their financial burden and they can travel from Mastuj to Gilgit, merely paying Rs.310 only. We are thankful to NA administration for providing this communication facility to the poor commuters of Chitral and Gilgit. 

Our bus departed at 6.30 AM with about 15 passengers on board. However, after we covered 4-5 kilometers we found a large number of young women and girls waiting for the bus at Shahidas village who were going to Harchin, some 10 kms up the valley, to participate in a religious congregation. More than 50 souls thronged in to the bus, filled every nook and corner of the vehicle and left no space even for breathing. This unexpected over-load made me scary, but I remained silent, sympathizing with the poor female folk and considering that their destination was not so far. At Harchin, they disembarked and I breathed a sigh of relief. However, it proved short-lived when another crowd of male passengers stormed the poor bus at Sorlaspur. All the �heavy-weight�Laspurites boarded the bus without seeking permission of the conductor or driver and the situation became too much dangerous, because from there the bus was to climb the sharply steep kacha road leading up to the Shandur plain. I felt querulous and strongly protested on that gross violation of traffic rules and playing havoc with lives of the passengers. To my great astonishment no one supported me because every one of them wanted to travel by this lonely bus what ever the result of over loading might be. I threatened to take up the case with the concerned authorities. A young blood among the passengers seated on the bare toolbox beside my seat bluntly said, �It does not matter, do what ever you wish�. I was badly shocked on the rude behaviour of the young person and reproached him on his unlawful and non-social behaviour. Another bearded fellow came up to me and introduced himself as Hav: Sher Azam s/o Isa Khan of 4 NLI. Supporting the over loading he was of the opinion that the bus had been running for the poor masses and they had the right to use it what ever they wished. He argued that no accident had occurred due to over load since the commissioning of the bus service. He advised me to hire special taxi if feared to travel by that heavily loaded bus. I felt extremely sorry over the unlawful advocacy of a person belonging to security force. Such like non-educated and uncivilized personnel encourage lawlessness. I should request the commandant of 4NLI to take action against the above mentioned soldier.
The driver and conductor of the bus being unable to dislodge those sturdy and stubborn villagers beseeched for compromise and assured that the bus was powerful enough to carry all the 40 plus passengers on board the 26-seat bus without any misshape. My conscience did not accept such a stupid assurance but there was no alternate option to continue my journey, so I closed my eyes and remained silent just like a dove when it shuts its eyes seeing a cat. The bus moved on at the snail pace. After one hour frightful drive we ascended the steep and reached Shandur by the grace of Allah. I again sighed with relief because we had dodged the ultimate accidental death.

From here on ward, we had to descent after crossing the Shandur plateau. At Teru village, some of the extra passengers dismounted and the bus driver dared not to pick up those waiting for the bus, because I had threatened to lodge complaint with the NATCO authorities if the bus was over loaded again. It worked and thereafter no irregularity was exercised. However, due to exchange of harsh words, bitterness swayed all along and we could not enjoy the journey. We neither could absorb in our mind the attractive scene of golden coloured trees of the Ghizer valley, nor appreciate the foaming cataracts, transparent springs and smooth flowing streams. After having our lunch at Gupis, we reached Gilgit at 6 pm.
The next day we boarded Rawalpindi bound NATCO bus at 900 hours. There were only nine passengers and therefore it stopped wherever found passengers on the way to pick. Thus, it took more than eleven hours to reach Abbottabad. This journey was comfortable. However, once the driver lit cigarette and when he was reminded about the no smoking ordinance, he immediately threw it out and thereafter he abided by the rule. We appreciated his submission. At 8.15 PM, we were at Abbottabad. Thanks to NATCO for providing alternate traveling facility for the Chitrali passengers. We request the NATCO authorities to consider a viable solution to the problem of local passengers of Laspur and Ghizer valleys mentioned in the beginning of this short travelogue